Tahíche & César Manrique Foundation

Continuing our trip back towards the south coast, after about 7 km (4.5 miles), we reach a small village with the clearly indigenous name of Tahiche. Normally, everybody would only pass through this village if it weren’t for the Fundación César Manrique – the biggest visitor attraction in the centre of the island – just 1.5 km (1 mile) outside of the village, in the suburban settlement of Taro de Tahiche.

At a roundabout marked by a silver coloured wind chime sculpture by Manrique, a small street leads you to the Fundación César Manrique, founded in 1982 by Manrique himself and a circle of friends, with the objective of promoting architecture that is in harmony with the natural environment. Four years later, he donated the house in Taro de Tahiche, which he had built for himself in 1968, to the foundation. He inhabited it until 1987, when he moved to a country house in Haría. After his tragic car accident in September 1992, his former home became the headquarters of the César Manrique Foundation and was opened as a modern art museum, already remodelled by Manrique for this purpose.

Built on a lava field, where he discovered that a fig tree was growing out of a volcanic bubble, of which he found more under ground, this house became the embodiment of the artist’s dream to live near and in harmony with nature. It was also the ideal place to combine all his artistic skills as architect, designer, sculptor, painter and landscaping architect.

Another outstanding example of Manrique’s preference for colour and movement – an impressive mobile, reminding of an enormous children’s toy – can be seen at the entrance to this extraordinary ‘home’. On two levels – one aboveground and one underground – and spreading over a total of 3,000 sq. metres, out of which about 1,800 sq. metres had once been mainly living space, this entire complex – both exterior and interior – represents an architectural masterpiece, where a striking contrast between black and white is predominating.

The visible exterior of the building, surrounded by a garden of cacti, succulents and semicircles of stone - set between white and black walls - was conceived with influences of traditional Canary architecture combined with contemporary touches, such as large windows and spacious terraces. A Bougainvillea overgrown entrance leads to a modern art museum, which was converted from Manrique’s former dwelling, with kitchen, bathroom, living room, bedroom and guest room. Besides many examples of Manrique’s own works and project designs, the museum displays works by many big names of 20th-century abstract and modern art, including Picasso, Miró, Tàpies and Jesús Soto. From here, a huge picture window looks out over the lava fields. Outside – in what used to be his garage – there is a souvenir and bookshop as well as a café-bar, near which a giant mural, made by Manrique in 1992, using volcanic rock and ceramic tiles, captivates the eyes.

Steps lead down to the lower floor, where everything becomes even more staggering. Linked by narrow galleries, also painted in black and white, are five volcanic bubbles, created by solidifying lava. Each compartment – measuring around 5 m (16 ft) in diameter – was transformed into an elegantly designed room, with its own distinctive character, furniture and colour. In one of them is a trickling fountain; in another one, a fig tree links the lower with the upper level. The dining room features an open grill and a dining table beneath a rock ceiling. There is also an open-air pool, which is filled by a black waterspout, a small dance floor and skilfully set plants.

Amazing and incredibly fascinating, the César Manrique Foundation definitely deserves a visit. Opening hours are from Monday to Saturday from 10.00 to 18.00 hrs, and on Sundays from 10.00 to 15.00 hrs.